Tudor Cosmetics

Cosmetics in the Elizabethan era were unhealthy and expensive. They often consisted of concoctions that consisted of natural products, some easily accessible and some not. Ultimately, the desired look among the upper classes was pale, almost translucent skin, which was also useful in that the white makeup would cover scarring from the common infectious disease, smallpox. Red cheeks and red lips were complimenting of the deathly pale skin. This look was mostly desirable as it was only achievable by the high class, extremely wealthy members of society (or Royals) who did not have to work and were able to stay away from the sun as much as they wanted, unlike the poor working classes who had to work outside in the sun all day and so accumulated a tan.

Makeup originated in the Middle East, and during The Crusade (expeditions made by European militaries to recover holy land from the Muslims) a lot was brought back to England, and so people experimented and makeup became extremely popular among the wealthy.

The pale face:

     

In order to create the white face of a rich tudor woman, hazardous, poisonous substances were used. A mixture of white lead and vinegar, Ceruse, was used to paste onto the face and hide any scars, blemishes and signs of ageing and to create the desired look. Although sometimes 'powdered borax' was used by other women. However, the poisonous lead meant that users were slowly causing irrevocable harm to themselves, and it led to symptoms such as dried out skin and conspitation. This dried out skin look was not aesthetically pleasing, and so this combined with Elizabeth's ageing meant that she would apply more and more. Sometimes face paint was also made of plant roots and leaves, which was more natural and not harmful. In some instances, women were even bled in order to have the true pale image. Richard Corson has said that she is the main influence when it comes to the regular use of paint, powder and patches (small black beauty spots). Corson also believes that they should have taken more care of their teeth rather than trying to make their face more pale.

The red cheeks and lips:

Cochineal was used to stain the cheeks and lips, which were crushed beatles that gave a distinct, vibrant red colour and was expensive to obtain. Ochre and Merchuric Sulphide were used to determine the shade of the cheek colour. When Cochineal was used on the lips, it would be blended with gum arabic, egg white and fig milk. Vermilion, a red pigment from the mineral 'Cinnabar' and Madder, a pigment taken from plants were also used for the reddening effect. Egg whites were also used to give an attractive sheen and glaze to the skin.

The light hair:


Light hair, namely colours such as yellow or strawberry blonde, was also desirable during the Elizabethan age, which was achieved through dying with saffron, cumin seeds and oil. However these noxious combinations meant that women's hair became thin and damaged, which made the use of wigs and hairpieces evermore popular.

Hugh Plat created a guide as to how to dye one's hair or beard a chestnut colour similar to Elizabeth in 1602. He claimed that Lead Calcined, Sulphur and Quicklime mixed with water would dye the hair.

Sources:
Cosgrave, B. 2000. Costume and Fashion: A Complete History, Hamlyn.
Corson, R., 2003. Fashions in Makeup: From Ancient to Modern Times, Peter Owen Publishers.
http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm
http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-make-up.htm
http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/12/most-dangerous-beauty-through-the-ages.html