Wednesday 5 November 2014

Modern Designers with Elizabethan Influence

Elizabethan influence is rife within the makeup world, there are constant allusions to her white face, rouged lips and cheeks and lack of eyebrows. Whether just one of these elements are used or all of them, it is clear when they make reference to the infamous queen.

Alex Box:


 

While looking at a book about Alex Box's work, I came across these two looks. I was immediately drawn to the white face, the pink cheeks, the pink lips and the blocked eyebrows with thin lines drawn over. This is a clear modern interpretation of Elizabethan makeup that Box has beautifully crafted with modern elements that also alludes to a 'doll' type look. I think this look is a strong representation of the fashionable tudor look that is not difficult to distinguish. These shots were also taken by the photographer known as 'Rankin', who is known for his colourful, vibrant but sleek portraits.

Paco Peregrin:
I have found that a lot of the photographer Paco Peregrin's work contains Elizabethan allusions. I am very interested in the Avant Garde interpretations of Elizabethan makeup as they capture my attention the most frequently.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_i0sNxtPujxA/SuUDtJF66FI/AAAAAAAAAE4/W9ltvI8uHxQ/s1600-h/paco-peregrin-alien-dolls-2.jpg
Although not explicitly obvious, I can draw Elizabethan elements from this look. Firstly, the ghostly white complexion of the model that extends across the head, the ears and the neck. Although almost artificial looking, this has reference to the pale complexion of Elizabeth. In addition to this, the placing of blush on the cheeks gives me the impression of Elizabethan makeup too, despite it being yellow, it is harsh with soft edges and contrasts with the white face. Lastly, the bald head makes me think of the lack of hair of Elizabethan women who would look like this underneath their headpieces and wigs. Therefore modern interpretations do not have to encompass all elements of Elizabethan makeup but can have slight references and similarities that give the voyeur the feel of familiar signifiers of Elizabethan makeup.

Alexia Sinclair


https://alexiasinclair.com/collections/the-regal-twelve#elizabeth-i
This photograph by Alexia Sinclair, a fine-artist and photographer, is a deliberate modern interpretation of Elizabeth I. When I look at this photo I see holy references from the rays of light behind her head, usually associated with Jesus and God. Moreover, I feel as if there is an 'Alice in Wonderland' sensation when looking at the giant chess pieces and Elizabeth's collapsed position on the floor. The makeup on the model is very similar to the stereotypical Elizabethan makeup, conforming to the beauty makeup norms where the eyes, cheeks and lips are addressed. What makes it modern is the colour around the eyes, however the makeup artist has clearly attempted to stay as close to the historically accurate look as possible, but with elements that draw it in with the bountiful head piece. so that it is not overpowered.

References:
Rankin, 2010. Alex Box, Rankin Photography.



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